週次 |
日期 |
單元主題 |
第1週 |
2/20 |
Introduction |
第2週 |
2/27 |
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass |
第3週 |
3/06 |
The Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean |
第4週 |
3/13 |
Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean, scaling of motion |
第5週 |
3/20 |
II. Hydrodynamic equation: Perturbation method
III. Small amplitude wave theory |
第6週 |
3/27 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude wave theory - Problem formulation and boundary conditions |
第7週 |
4/03 |
溫書假 |
第8週 |
4/10 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave solution and Gravity-Capillary wave solution. |
第9週 |
4/17 |
III. theory of waves: Dispersion relation, standing wave and waves on a uniform current. |
第10週 |
4/24 |
IV. Engineering properties of gravity waves:
particle velocity and trajectory, pressure and pure standing waves |
第11週 |
5/01 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: partial standing waves and energy transfer |
第12週 |
5/08 |
Midterm examination |
第13週 |
05/15 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: Transformations of waves entering shallow water |
第14週 |
05/22 |
V shallow water waves |
第15週 |
05/29 |
V shallow water waves |
第16週 |
06/05 |
VI. Statistics of waves |
第17週 |
06/12 |
端午節 |
第18週 |
06/19 |
Final Examination |